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Draping | Patterning | Stitching

Romeo & Juliet: Nurse

University of South Carolina

Costume Design by Kristy Leigh Hall

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The corset was created based off a pre-existing pattern and edited into the desired shape. I created the blouse pattern by draping the bodice and flat patterning the sleeves, cuffs, and collar. The skirt pattern was created by draping the shape on the dress form.

 

The corset and skirt were constructed from a textured lightweight upholstery. Additionally the corset had a coutil lining with light boning added only to the center front. The blouse was constructed with two different fabrics: a sheer iridescent silk flatlined to a solid opaque cotton. The cuffs opened and closed with functional small buttons with elastic loops. 

Romeo & Juliet: Lady Capulet

University of South Carolina

Costume Design by Kristy Leigh Hall

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This Dior inspired dress was created by draping the bodice and skirt on the dress form. The sleeves were flat patterned to fit the armsyce of the drape. Since the brocade the dress was constructed from was only 27" wide, it was necessary to split the skirt and stomacher of the bodice into seven panels. The bodice and sleeves were lined in an accent yellow silk. A clear elastic strap was added to the center of the neckline during tech rehearsals to prevent the V shape from drooping.

Rumors: Cookie

University of South Carolina

Costume Design by Kyla Little

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I created the pattern for this dress by draping the bodice on the dress form. The bodice of the dress was constructed of two different sections of beaded fabric flatlined to an opaque silk underneath. The jeweled broach was secured at the center of the gathers by hand. The skirt was a constructed from the entire yardage of fabric purchased for the build and gathered down to the waistband. I attached the fur trim to the bottom of the dress by hand. The fur was carefully salvaged from an old fur coat and pieced it together to reach the length of the hem. 

Sh-Boom! A Christmas Miracle: Lois

Sierra Repertory Theatre

Costume Design by Andrew Burns

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Lois' red dress was created by using a vintage pattern as a jumping off point. After the first mock-up fitting, I made the necessary style line and fit adjustments to the pattern. The dress was constructed with a base solid red silk and a luxurious burnout brocade flatline to the bodice and overlayed with the skirt. I inserted piping into the curved yoke seam of the bodice to accent the decorative style line. 

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For Lois' circle skirt was created from a flat pattern and carefully pattern matched on both the center front and center back of the skirt. The skirt was constructed from a custom large scale plaid cotton twill. 

Wonderland (Ballet): Alice

University of South Carolina

Costume Design by Andrew Burns

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I created the pattern of this dress by draping the bodice, skirt, and cap sleeves on the dress form, while the waist belt and bow were flat patterned. The dress was constructed with two layers of fabric flatlined together: a sheer iridescent chiffon and a light blue opaque dupioni silk. The belt and bow were bias bound by an accent darker blue dupioni silk. Once the dress was fully constructed, I carefully hand-stitched soutache braid trim in the long leaf stem design on each panel of the dress. I sketched the design onto strips of tissue paper which was then carefully pinned to the panel as a guideline for stitching on this detailing.

Sideways Stories from Wayside School: Mrs Jewls

University of South Carolina

Costume Design by Andrew Burns

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I created the pattern for the skirt by draping the center yoke and waistband on the dress form. Using the shape this created, I flat patterned the skirt panels and added three times the width to account for the gathering. The skirt was constructed from a pink micro-suede and a golden yellow ultra-suede with decorative buttons stitched onto the faux center front overlap. The decorative stripes on the hem were created with bias strips of a flannel and topstitched in place

Murder on the Orient Express: Countess Andreyni

Winnipesaukee Playhouse

Costume Design by Andrew Burns

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I created the pattern for this dress by draping the desired silhouette on the dress form; however, the lower skirt panels were flat patterned from the triangle cutout shape in the upper skirt panels. The flared layered sleeves, collar, and decorative bow were also flat patterned. The dress was constructed with a white and mauve silk charmeuse and a decorative pleated silk dyed to match the mauve charmeuse. 

Cersei Lannister Corset

Personal Project

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I created this corset for myself based on a costume designed by Michele Clapton for Cersei Lannister in Game of Thrones. I altered and flat patterned the pieces for this based on a previous corset I built to my measurements in undergrad. The corset is constructed from a lightweight upholstery fabric and a silk taffeta lining and embellished with rhinestones and hand embroidered and beaded shoulder appliques I stitched with a variety of embroidery floss, brass chainmail rings, and beads.  

©2024 by Andrew Burns

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